Jewelry photography is one of my specialties—not just because of the inherent beauty of the subject, but because of the technical challenge it presents. There’s something uniquely satisfying about taking various stones and metals—formed deep within the earth—and capturing the artistry that unites them into something exquisite.
While I use many techniques in jewelry photography, I want to highlight one specific approach I’ve been refining recently. The resulting images appear simple, but the process behind them is a little intricate.
The Setup: Building the Scene
It starts with a table in my camera room. On it, I place three wooden blocks wrapped in black tape (so we don’t introduce stray colors), which support a 16×20” sheet of non-glare glass (the kind used in picture framing, featuring a pebbled surface). For this shoot, I use the textured side up.
I affix the rings directly to the glass in whatever configuration the client desires. In this instance, I’m the client, and I want to display the rings standing—showing off the gemstones, all the way to the back of the band. I also chose both gold and silver rings because they reflect light and the surroundings differently and benefit from different approaches.
One advantage of the glass platform is that it allows for interchangeable background panels beneath it. The table’s natural gray surface serves as one option. I can also slide in a sheet of black plexiglass for a dramatic look, followed by a white plastic panel for a brighter, cleaner feel. This way, I can swap backgrounds for anything from colored foil to tissue paper—whatever best serves the client’s brand.
Lighting the Subject
Lighting is key. For this demonstration, I used three LED COB lights: one on the left, one on the right, and one directly overhead. The top-down light is aimed specifically at the gemstone and left undiffused to create the sparkle that brings the jewelry to life.
I individually meter each light, then balance them collectively for proper exposure. A diffusion cone over the set helps soften reflections while allowing that essential sparkle to cut through from the top.
For years, I relied on studio strobes for jewelry, and I still use them in certain scenarios. But with the rise of color-accurate COB LED lighting, constant light has become my preferred method for many pieces, thanks to its precision, ability to clearly see the effect, and flexibility.
Camera and Tools
My go-to cameras are 40MP Fujis, in this case with an 80mm f/2.8 macro lens. For this shoot, the proper exposure settings were f/11, ISO 125, and 1/15 sec—perfect for lens sharpness, although providing modest depth of focus in macro. The modest depth of field is enhanced using focus stacking.
I tether the camera to an iPad using CamRanger, which has become an essential part of my workflow. CamRanger lets me adjust exposure settings, focus, and even perform focus stacking—a technique that combines multiple shots focused at different depths to produce a final image that’s sharp front to back.
You can see more about CamRanger in my jewelry workflow in this video: Jewelry Lighting.
A final touch: a plexiglass mirror placed just in front of the glass platform bounces light back up into the ring, enhancing shape and sparkle.
The Results: Subtle Differences, Big Impact
•The silver ring example is shot with a shallow depth of field and no focus stacking. As a result, the front gem is sharp, but the inside band of the ring softens into blur—an aesthetic some clients prefer.
•The gold ring on gray uses partial focus stacking, improving clarity through the body of the ring, though the inside of the band is still soft.
•The gold ring on black is fully focus-stacked and sharp throughout—crisp, detailed, and my personal preference.
Jewelry photography is a craft of millimeters and microns
Jewelry photography truly is a craft of millimeters and microns (see the above referenced video and the camera mount in use). It’s the blend of light direction and surface texture, of balancing clarity with atmosphere. If you’re in need of standout imagery that highlights the artistry of your pieces, I’d be honored to collaborate.
Call Jeff Behm Photography: 724-730-8513
Or visit jeffbehm.com or the blog at behmphoto.com
Email: jeffbehm@behmphoto.com
